Fansipan Tour – 4th ‘trophy’

Written by Mike Tran (mike@vietnamimpressive.com)
Wednesday, 12 March 2008

Reaching the top of Fansipan – the highest peak in the Indochina is always in my mind even how many times before I have ever conquered as it is often a big challenge, hardness, and sometimes of course a feeling of couragement. Once in life at least you reach the top, you will never forget.

This is my 4th time to conquer this peak, 3143m above the sea level – cloudy, windy and 4degree celsius cold. You might think for what that guy to climb so many times. I cannot answer properly merely I love the feeling of being a conqueror holding a ‘trophy’ so I go!…with 4 friends coming from various travel agencies here in Hanoi.

Le Duan station, Friday night, 7th March (night 1)
We decided to take Livitrans Express first class from Hanoi to Lao Cai. This is clean and comfortable tourist carriage. We checked in at Mango hotel, 118 Le Duan. Train departs at 2040 at platform 6, carriage 6 – luckily, we are in the middle of the train! Experience shows that you should not travel in the carriages near the locomotive which is so noisy. Train went smoothly as we fall asleep – a deep overnight train sleep!
We arrived Lao Cai station at 0500 the next morning and welcomed by driver of Royal Sapa hotel to drive uphill Sapa.

Sapa – Tram Ton – Viet Hung base camp, Saturday, 8th March (day 1)
The 16 seater van takes 45mins to transfer us from Lao Cai station to Sapa. Road snakes up and I have little motion sickness. Perhaps too fast driving is a cause here as normally I donot have this feeling. Anyhow, we arrived the hotel, taking short break refreshing ourselves a had a breakfast and light coffee before taking the challenge.
Packing and preparation is important as if you are too heavy ie bring so many things then it will be a big hindrance after a short trek but if you donot bring enough things then you will have problem as you donot wear warmly enough.
0900: We began to drive to Tram Ton, 1900m above the sea level with our excellent Hmong porter acts as guide, Ma A Sang, he is simply the best guide and porter to Fansipan, to start our trekking through the jungle going down and climbing up until we reached Bai Soi to have lunch break. Bread, fromage, pate, fruit and water are things to complete our simple lunch. Well it is ok and we cannot ask for more in this condition. Every body in the group is happy as this is normal thus quite long trek. We reached our base camp of Viet Hung at 1430 – wow, very early and all people thought the Fansipan trip is so easy!! Well, not quite, not easy at all, please wait until tomorrow…
We then took a little rest. Some members are encourageous to play shuttle cock, some gathered together on wood-fire happily. Temp is more or less 13oC. We had an ever excellent ‘candle’ dinner – Ma A Sang proved to be the best ‘chef’.
Night begins with rain – a kind of tropical forest rain is so strong and terrible. Temp is comming down faster. We were very worried for the next day real challenge ahead…
(night 2)

Viet Hung base camp – top 3143m – Viet Hung base camp, Sunday, 9th March (day 2)
0600: Rain stops. We are all glad but unfortunately one hour later, it downpours again – it is so painful. Some are doubtful the possibility to climb to the top as road is slippy and dangerous. Heavy rain continues until 0920. Jimmy (had 2 trophies before) decided to stay at the base camp as he had an injury remaining 4 of us to conquer the peak. Well it is so hard to decide at this condition but we did.
The first part of this day is so much challenging. I had leftside ankle injury when I could not control myself stepping down one stiff slope, so painful but i tried not to quit as I donot want to miss this chance to add my trophy list.
Ma A Sang told me to stay back. I said NO…
Rain continues more heavily. One more member decided to withdraw when we reached the 2500m stop – what a pitty since there is only over 600m left. Indeed, it is understandable unde this hard weather condition.
Worrying that we will come back the base camp late. I decided to move ahead more quickly than the other members. This is not a selfish idea, indeed, if you can do, then go ahead with it. The left will be taken care by super expert Ma A Sang, no matter at all!
I reached to the top at 1300 so it took me 3,5 hours to get there from 2100 base camp. That was pretty fast!
I met with 4 English conquerors on the way. We said hello, asking health and couragement socially then each did one’s job.
I was alone on the top. It was such a bloody cold and windy and froggy – 4oC I could say. My two palms are unmoveable because of the cold. No food, no water as all carried by A Sang while they have not yet reached the top. I stayed there about 15mins before deciding going back. I met group on the way back asking for drip of water and had twist hand shaking with them. I returned on my own again…
The way back was fast and easier. You will not be feeling so tired. The rain stopped and I had chance and mood to enjoy beautiful red Do Quyen flower (rhododendron) which only found at the elevation of 2200m in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range.
I arrived base camp at 1545 – what a fast trek!!! Jimmy was so surprised!!
1645: Others came back – all glad, happy and proud being new Fansipan conquerors.
We prepared dinner. Tonight is special night as we would be celebrating John’s birthday.
We had French wine and candle which is unique in the forest.
Happy birthday to John, Happy birthday to new conqueror!!
Night came easier…
(night 3)

Viet Hung base camp – Sin Chai village – Sapa – Lao Cai – Overnight train Hanoi, Monday, 10th March (day 3)
0600: I woke up feeling terribly painful with my ankle as I walked hard previously. I did a warm up and take light walking practice. It is becoming better but still I am doutful if I could go down mountain on Sin Chai route which is definitely stiff slope, hard, muddy and dangerous but I have to, not being a surrender…
Weather today is perfect – sunshine everywhere!
Normally people would love to return the same way to Tram Ton which is more ore less 3 hour trekking at normal speed but we donot do since it is quite boring to do so though understand it is easier.
Sin Chai is a H’mong hilltribe village at the root of Hoang Lien Son which is near to Cat Cat village, 15 mins by car to Sapa town. Actually this route is nicer as you trek always on the top of mountains. You also have chance to see the only left Pomu (Dryopteridaceae family) tree – this vast Pomu forest was tragedily burnt in a forest fire in 1992 which you still can see the burnt trees scatterred on the way.
You will also find white Do Quyen flower which is only at this elevation.
Sin Chai route was hard. We have two more persons injured while trekking back on this way. It is so bad experience but we are still so happy as our goal nearly finished as we reach closer to the village.
Tons of photos taken – we donot want to miss this chance!
We are at Sin Chai at 1230 – it is normal speed as we are all not in a good health condition due to injuries and we have to be careful.
Sin Chai village is so nice with peach flower, vegetable, spring. We had a short rest to clean ourselves and belongings abit before returning to Sapa on the 16 seater Ford Transit waiting for us! We can see, our trip ended successfully from this point…
We had a halfday use room at Royal hotel – it was ok, the room
1800: We say goodbye Sapa charming town to return to Lao Cai station. This time we took the Fansipan Express Train which is nice, clean and comfortable though they had a bad and unexpected incident of not having water in the toilets which rarely happens but it was…
We arrived Hanoi station at 0430 the next morning to conclude our journey to the trophy and I proudly abit to say, at least, this is my 4th time conquering this roof of Indochina and I hope, I will of course be there next time…
(night 4)